Days 14-20: The Lew Part 2

HD: Our most remote stretch of the entire CDT is at the beginning. Making it to Helena, although very early in the hike from a timeline perspective, was always an important goal.

The southern portion of the wilderness area was completely different from the northern stretch. Instead of constantly wet feet and running water everywhere, this section was dry – almost desert like sometimes. We had to plan our water stops in advance, and carry water for 20 miles at a time. The glacial mountains and thick forests of the north gave way to high altitude fields and meadows. Our daily vertical ascent jumped in this 125 mile stretch; we struggled to keep the daily total under 4,500 feet. The weather was… better. Only one day of precipitation, however that involved five rounds of sleet and a finishing round of hail. Another meal prepared in the tent..

The CDT truly follows the Continental Divide on this section of trail. Most days were spent above treeline on ridges, and you could see the trail ahead of you for miles. The wildflowers made the place look like a scene from “The Sound of Music”. Neon purple, iridescent blue, bright white; it is difficult to describe. The ridgeline would eventually give way to a sharp decent and a crossing of a mountain pass. We spent two nights in a row camped on these passes; flat space is at a premium. Beautiful, windy, and exposed.

We started to see more people as we walked closer to Helena. Day hikers mostly; all were very friendly and wanted to chat. One gentleman, Gary, offered to pick us up when we crossed the road to Helena and return us to the same spot two days later, which we gladly accepted.

A short break in Helena is long overdue. Neither of us has visited here; the day hikers all gave recommendations for their favorite restaurants. Special thanks to Shana for contributing to our “feel bad for us and buy us a meal in town” GoFundMe site. Dinner on Shana in Helena!

MC: our second week in the Lew was shockingly different than the first, we had to think about water. Our feet were dry for the first time in a week but we had to collect our water from a variety of sources, which included two cow troughs; granted the troughs were filled by spring water coming out of PVC pipes and we didn’t have to dip our bottles into the actual tub, so that was good.

The scenery was spectacular, with multiple ridge line hiking on several of the days. This adventure was finally providing some reward to the risk we were giving it.

With Helena closely approaching, we were dead set on hitch hiking into town, that was until we met a senior hiking group on the trail outside of Helena. We met Gary, who offered to pick us up on the trail and bring us into town. Not only was he responsive but he was early to our meeting spot, walking the last quarter mile with us back to his vehicle and then offering us oranges and grapes as we road into town. He was a true blessing, and our first instance of Trail Magic on the CDT.

I sit here currently in our hotel room at the Hilton Double Tree in downtown Helena, and I am so thankful for the time off we have had. Hannon and I plan to see a movie tomorrow and go to the local brewery with Gary in the evening. Then it’s on to Anaconda, MT starting Wednesday. The trip will take us four days.